Tips & Tricks
Welcome to a new addition to our site; Tips & Tricks! We will be regularly adding pages for newcomers to learn from. If you are interested in adding your own Tips & Tricks or How To’s, just contact Devon Wilson (dwilson718@yahoo.com), or Austin Brandt (mortossoulstealler@gmail.com).
Our first Tips & Tricks is by our own Michael Dexter.
Electrical Guidelines and Practices
- Layout all components in “Buss Layout” format so that all identical components are laid out next to each other and that all of the inputs are on one side and all the outputs are on the other. Run slotted wire channels on each side of the components, one for input and one for output.
- The ideal electronics board has all of its connection integrated into a couple of plugs that are easy to remove and replace. It is also helpful to have the electronics board slide in on railsĀ so that the electronics board can be removed “Cassette-Style”.
- This is a must!! You must use remote tether ports and programming ports! You do NOT want to rip out the port on the robot controller as it is a pain to fix and robot controllers are very expensive. Even if you have extras, don’t risk it. (A remote port is a small cable that is fixed to the robot on one end and is plugged into the robot controller on the other. This also allows you to place the robot controller in just about any place and have the tether and programming ports in the most convenient place for your team.)
- Properly label all components, fuses and wires. This means that, for example, the right #1 drive CIM should be labeled “1″ on the motor, each lead wire coming off the motor should be labeled “1″, the victor controlling it should be labeled “1″, The PWM cable that controls the victor should be labeled “1″, the wires connecting the victor to the fuse panel and the ground panel should be labeled “1″, The fuse that power the victor should be labeled “1″ and the PWM cable should be plugged into the number one port. Wires should be labeled on each end so that there is no question and you will never have to trace a wire through wire management or through a bundle.
- Make an electronics guide and attach it to the robot. This guide should include the Number that the series of components and wires are labeled with, the motor or device type, fuse amperage, controller type, and location and/or function of the component. For example, using the CIM motor in the previous bullet item, the first line of the guide would look like this: #1 / CIM Motor / 40A / Victor 884 / PWM port 1 / #1 Left Drive Motor.
- Shrink tube is your friend. Plan ahead and use it wherever possible. It works much better and lasts much longer than electrical tape.
- The best way to do the end of a power wire, or any other wire that will have a terminal on the end, is to first strip the wire, then slide a 1″ long piece of shrink tube on the end. Crimp an uninsulated terminal on the end, then solder the uninsulated terminal to wire so that it will never pull off. Slide the piece of shrink tube over the terminal as far down as possible and then, using a heat gun, shrink it in place. Although this process takes more steps then just crimping a pre-insulated crimp terminal on the end of a wire, the results are far superior. No matter the quality of the terminals and crimp tool you use, if you strain any plain crimp terminal enough and it will eventually come off.
- The leads of every motor wire should have quick disconnects near the motor so that you won’t have to cut zip ties or pull the wiring off if you need to pull the motor off to work on it.
- Current sensors are your friend, use them on motors and find a way to look at and log the data that they provide. They can tell you of motor problems including misalignment, and other potential mechanical problems.